By Rick Steves

Smirk definition, to smile in an affected, smug, or offensively familiar way. The Walking Dead creator Robert Kirkman has revealed why he killed off lead character Rick Grimes in the cult graphic novel series. In the penultimate issue, Grimes was shot to death in his bed.

Foreign toilets can be traumatic, even in Europe, but they are one of those little things that can make travel so much more interesting than staying at home — every world traveler has one or two great toilet stories that give 'going local' a very real meaning.

Why
Flummoxing Flushers

n Europe, you may or may not encounter a familiar flushing mechanism. In older bathrooms, toilets may come with a pull string instead of a handle (generally with the tank affixed to the wall rather than the toilet itself). In modern bathrooms, you may see two buttons on top of the tank — one performs a regular flush, the other (for lighter jobs) conserves water. In Great Britain, you'll likely come across the 'pump toilet,' with a flushing handle that doesn't kick in unless you push it just right: too hard or too soft, and it won't go. (Be decisive but not ruthless.)

Toilet Paper

Like a spoon or a fork, this is another Western 'essential' that many people on our planet do not use. What they use varies. I won't get too graphic, but remember that a billion civilized people on this planet never eat with their left hand. While Europeans do use toilet paper, WCs may not always be well stocked. If you're averse to the occasional drip-dry, carry pocket-size tissue packs (easy to buy in Europe) for WCs sans TP. Some countries, such as Greece and Turkey, have very frail plumbing. If you see an wastebasket near the toilet with used toilet paper in it, that's a sign that the sewer system isn't up to snuff. Put your used TP in the wastebasket instead of flushing it. (The rule of thumb in those places: Don't put anything in the toilet unless you've eaten it first.)

Paid Toilets

Paying to use a public WC is a European custom that irks some Americans. But isn't it really worth a few coins, considering the cost of water, maintenance, and cleanliness? And you're probably in no state to argue, anyway. Coin-operated toilets are the norm at highway rest areas, train stations, and even at some sights. (Many coin-op WCs have self-cleaning toilet seats; stick around after you're done to watch the show.)

Sometimes the toilet itself is free, but an attendant in the corner sells sheets of toilet paper. Most common is the tip dish by the entry — the local equivalent of about 50 cents is plenty. Caution: Many attendants leave only bills and too-big coins in the tray to bewilder the full-bladdered tourist. The keepers of Europe's public toilets have earned a reputation for crabbiness. You'd be crabby, too, if you lived under the street in a room full of public toilets. Humor them, understand them, and carry some change so you can leave them a coin or two.

Women in the Men's Room

Why Does Rick See Loris Ghost

The female attendants who seem to inhabit Europe's WCs are a popular topic of conversation among Yankee males. Sooner or later you'll be minding your own business at the urinal, and the lady will bring you your change or sweep under your feet. Yes, it is distracting, but you'll just have to get used to it — she has.

Gender-Neutral Bathrooms

Why Does Rick Smiley

Some European bathrooms have shared hand-washing facilities for women and men, with adjacent but separate toilet areas. And some restrooms make no distinctions for gender at all.

Squat Toilets

The vast majority of European toilets are similar to our own. But in a few out-of-the-way places, you might find one that consists simply of porcelain footprints and a squat-and-aim hole. If faced with a squat toilet, remember: Those of us who need a throne to sit on are in the minority. Throughout the world, most humans sit on their haunches and nothing more. Sometimes called 'Turkish toilets,' these are more commonly found in, well, Turkey.

Getting comfortable in foreign restrooms takes a little adjusting, but that's travel. When in Rome, do as the Romans do — and before you know it, you'll be Euro-peein'.

Finding a Public Restroom

I once dropped a tour group off in a town for a potty stop, and when I picked them up 20 minutes later, none had found relief. Locating a decent public toilet can be frustrating. But with a few tips, you can sniff out a biffy in a jiffy.

Coin-op Toilets on the Street

Some large cities, such as Paris, London, and Amsterdam, are dotted with coin-operated, telephone-booth-type WCs on street corners. Insert a coin, the door opens, and you have 15 minutes of toilet use accompanied by Sinatra Muzak. When you leave, the entire chamber disinfects itself.

Some cities have free, low-tech public urinals (called pissoirs) that offer just enough privacy for men to find relief…sometimes with a view. Munich had outdoor urinals until the 1972 Olympics and then decided to beautify the city by doing away with them. What about the people's needs? There's a law in Munich: Any place serving beer must admit the public (whether they're customers or not) to use the toilets.

Restaurants

Any place that serves food or drinks has a restroom. No restaurateur would label his WC so those on the street can see, but you can walk into nearly any restaurant or café, politely and confidently, and find a bathroom. Assume it's somewhere in the back, either upstairs or downstairs. It's easiest in large places that have outdoor seating — waiters will think you're a customer just making a quick trip inside. Some call it rude; I call it survival. If you feel like it, ask permission. Just smile, 'Toilet?' I'm rarely turned down. American-type fast-food places are very common and usually have a decent and fairly accessible 'public' restroom. Timid people buy a drink they don't want in order to use the bathroom, but that's generally unnecessary (although sometimes the secret bathroom door code is printed only on your receipt).

Even at American chains, be prepared for bathroom culture shock. At a big Starbucks in Bern, Switzerland, I opened the door to find an extremely blue space. It took me a minute to realize that the blue lights made it impossible for junkies to find their veins.

Public Buildings

When nature beckons and there's no restaurant or bar handy, look in train stations, government buildings, libraries, large bookstores, and upper floors of department stores. Parks often have restrooms, sometimes of the gag-a-maggot variety. Never leave a museum without taking advantage of its restrooms — they're free, clean, and decorated with artistic graffiti. Sometimes you can access a museum's restrooms from the entry hall, without paying to go inside. Large, classy, old hotel lobbies are as impressive as many palaces you'll pay to see. You can always find a royal retreat here, and plenty of soft TP.

Gene Page/AMC

In the Season 7 midseason premiere of The Walking Dead, 'Rock in the Road,' Rick and his ragtag crew of survivors took the first concrete steps towards forming a resistance against Negan and the Saviors. That forward momentum took them from the Hilltop to the Kingdom and then back to Alexandria — and then out into the world again to investigate the suspicious disappearance of Father Gabriel. The episode left them in a dangerous situation, surrounded at gunpoint by a mysterious new group of survivors who didn't seem too keen on strangers. It was a familiar situation for the the crew, but not a happy one, which made Rick's reaction to it incredibly weird: when faced with all those weapons, Rick smiled. But why did Rick smile on The Walking Dead?

On the whole, the episode had a much more optimistic tone than the first half of the season. It finally felt like Rick and the other Alexandrians might have a few victories coming up in the future after a long string of losses. But that sense of optimism doesn't really explain Rick's reaction, because he didn't crack a smile during many of the less tense moments throughout the episode. Even when Michonne tried to cheer him up, things were still bleak with Rick. So what inspired the sudden smile?

It seemed like a direct callback to an earlier moment in the episode. After Rick and Michonne clotheslined half a herd of walkers with the help of two cars and a steel cable, she attempted to calm Rick down and remind him that things were going to be alright. She told him to smile, because they were survivors and they were going to live through this. But Rick still seemed too overwhelmed by the close call with the herd to heed her advice.

Rick's smile at the end of the episode could have been a sign that her words had finally gotten through to him. Despite the dangers waiting around every corner, Rick knew that they could handle everything that was thrown their way and still come out on top. After weeks of following the rules, Rick was ready to fight back — and he might even be excited about it. Now every new threat is just one more thing they'll overcome.

Rick's end of episode smile may have felt incongruous in context, but it was a sign of the new optimism that has infected the show. Things are different now. They might even be better. And Rick was feeling that change.